ESP + G&T: Spain's Love Affair with Gin and Tonics

We arrived in Spain expecting red wine, cava and sangria. We left thoroughly schooled in the art of a cocktail so simple and delicious, and yet summarily forgotten in the U.S.: the gin and tonic.

I don't know how this obsession came to pass, but Spain is the world's third largest gin consumer. This is particularly surprising not only given Spain's size, but also given that Spain... doesn't really make its own gin. Nevertheless, Spaniards do G&Ts like we do our whiskey: small batch, poured with care by heavily mustachioed mixology snobs.

So, what makes a good G&T?

First you need a good tonic. According to our bartender at Ultramarinos in Barcelona, the best tonics come bottled from England. Their distinguishing factor? Small bubbles (just like in Champagne, a sign of quality). Pro tip: England exports crappier makes of popular tonics like Schweppes, leaving the bette rquality bottles for home consumption. So for best results buy tonics bottled for British consumption.

Then, you need good gin. This one is relatively easy: gins come from all over the world. England is the most prominent gin producer, but great ones can be found in France, the Netherlands, the United States, Scotland and Germany. It can contain any mix of botanicals, with juniper being the most common, and any liquor store owner worth his/her salt can point you to a recommendation, depending on the flavor profile you prefer. I'm a Hendricks gal myself.

Next, you need good ice. That means ice that doesn't melt in the glass, watering down your drink. Surprisingly, even a low-key neighborhood gin joint in the Gracia neighborhood of Barcelona had this type of ice on hand. Behold:

Then, you have to get the pour down. First place the ice cube. Then pour the gin. Then place a long spoon into the middle of the glass, and pour the topic down the spoon. The purpose? Not to screw up the bubbles.

Of the gins we sampled (and we sampled... a lot of gins), we particularly liked one with cucumber and black pepercorn, and another with ginger and hot peppers.

Back in the U.S., we've been disappointed by the lack of G&T bars. Americans seem to treat the G&T like a rum and coke - a bleh drink you order when you have zero confidence in the bartender. A gourmet pour, it is not.

There are a few notable exceptions: Cata on the Bowery in NYC has a whopping 22 gin and tonics on the menu (come to think of it, when we lived in the neighborhood I'd aways muse about how random it was that a tapas place was so into G&T... ). Bathtub Gin is another great NYC speakeasy to consider. The Gin Joint in the District is solid.

Still, Spain, and in particular Barcelona, seems to have a stranglehold on the gourmet G&T market. So next time you visit, consider including some juniper alongside your your red.